Understanding Canvas Construction in Suits:
Why Full Canvas Sets the Standard
At Cuff & Crease, we believe that a great suit starts from the inside. One of the most important—and often overlooked—details in tailoring is how the jacket is constructed. Let’s break down the three main types of suit construction: fused, half canvas, and full canvas—and why full canvas is the only option we offer.
Fused Suits: The Disposable Standard
Fused suits are the most common in the ready-to-wear market. They use glue to attach a synthetic interlining directly to the outer fabric.
The Problems:
Lacks breathability because of the glue—trapping heat and limiting movement
The Glue can bubble and separate over time, ruining the suit’s shape. One this happens, it cannot be saved
Stiff and lifeless drape that never molds to your body. This is often most visible in lack of lapel shape
Fused construction prioritizes speed and low cost over quality and comfort. For those who care about how a suit feels and how it holds up, fused simply isn’t the answer.
Half Canvas: A Compromise That Falls Short
Half canvas suits—often used by brands like Suitsupply and Indochino—incorporate canvas in the chest and lapel but rely on fusing below. It’s a step above fully fused, but still a compromise.
The Drawbacks:
Limited natural shaping, especially below the chest
Reduced durability and lifespan. The glue will separate over time
Loses the soft, effortless drape that defines fine tailoring
While half canvas is marketed as a blend of value and structure, it ultimately misses the mark for clients who demand true craftsmanship.
Full Canvas: The Hallmark of Quality
At Cuff & Crease, every suit we make features a full canvas construction. A floating layer of horsehair or natural canvas runs from the shoulders through the hem, carefully stitched—not glued—to the fabric.
Why It’s Superior:
Natural Drape: The canvas allows the jacket to move with your body, creating a soft, flattering shape.
Longevity: No glue to break down, no shortcuts—just durable craftsmanship that stands the test of time.
Breathability: The canvas breathes and molds to your shape, keeping you comfortable no matter the season.
Refined Elegance: The result is a suit that feels as good as it looks, with a quiet confidence that never fades.
Our Commitment to Full Canvas
At Cuff & Crease, we don’t believe in shortcuts. A full canvas suit isn’t about flash—it’s about substance. It’s the quiet luxury that comes from decades of tradition and the kind of fit that only improves with time.
